Nota: publicado en Inglés: vamos a editar e incluir versión en español pronto.
2016 March 19-26
The northern part of eastern Colombia is Orinoquía. The Orinoco River basin drains through Venezuela to the Gulf of Paria, while the southern part of eastern Colombia drains to the Amazon, reaching the Atlantic at Belém. These two basins are linked by the unusual Casiquiare river, which splits into two, one arm draining into the Orinoco and the other into the Amazon, so that it is possible to travel by river from the mouth of the Amazon to the mouth of the Orinoco, although you need more than one boat, since the many rapids and falls mean that you have to leave the boat on one side of these and portage to the other. We became accustomed to this process.
The northern part of eastern Colombia is Orinoquía. The Orinoco River basin drains through Venezuela to the Gulf of Paria, while the southern part of eastern Colombia drains to the Amazon, reaching the Atlantic at Belém. These two basins are linked by the unusual Casiquiare river, which splits into two, one arm draining into the Orinoco and the other into the Amazon, so that it is possible to travel by river from the mouth of the Amazon to the mouth of the Orinoco, although you need more than one boat, since the many rapids and falls mean that you have to leave the boat on one side of these and portage to the other. We became accustomed to this process.
Our campsites in Orinoquía
This part of Colombia is sparsely populated and infrequently visited: we
joined a group to make a week-long trip to Puerto Carreño, then by 4 x 4
through part of El Tuparro National Natural Park, then upriver via the Orinoco,
Atabapo, and Inírida to visit the Cerros of Mavecure, then back downriver to
Puerto Inírida to fly back to Bogotá. These pre-Cambrian monoliths feature in
the recent Oscar-nominated film “Abrazo del Serpiente” and have been on our
radar for a while. They are essentially the same geological structures as the
monoliths we encountered near Téofilo
Otoni in Minas Gerais, and the better-known Pão de Açúcar and Pedra da Gávea in Rio de Janeiro.
The route from Puerto Carreño to the Cerros and then Puerto Inírida
We arrived in Puerto Carreño, capital of Vichada, and took a launch down
the Orinoco seeking river dolphins, which did make an appearance, albeit
somewhat shyly. We then headed upriver to visit the Reserva Bojonawi and then further upriver to a rocky
island in midriver, giving us an early appreciation of the exposure of the
underlying geological basement.
We were fortunate that we had arrived during
the Torneo Internacional de 'Corrío' llanero and were able to spend the evening
at the competition and enjoy the fun.
The Torneo is a Colombian Calgary Stampede, or perhaps more accurately, Black Diamond Rodeo, with associated fair and live music.
We spent the night in
the evocatively named Hotel Orinoco. Early the next morning, after breakfast on the riverbank we headed off
in 4 x 4 vehicles to the falls on the Caño Mesetas, having to cross the river on a balsa.
Following a
delicious dip in the river, in the rather warm weather, we continued past
several monoliths, then on to Garcitas, where we transferred kit onto three
boats to start making our way upriver to our first campsite, at Tambora.
Waking before sunrise to appreciate
the dawn over the river, after breakfast we made our way upriver, passing the Raudales
de Guajibo, where we left the boats to walk upstream so that the boats could
ascend the rapids unencumbered with unnecessary passengers, then on to the Bocas
del Tuparro. Here there are extensive rapids, and we hiked along the bank to
see the rapids and the well-known balanced rock in mid-river.
Returning to the
bocas we then travelled up the Caño Tuparro, crossed the Raudales de Tuparro,
and then visited a village at Caño Lapa, where we walked up to rocky outcrops,
with a beautiful river cascading down the rocks, creating a fresh pool in which
swimming was a delight. After lunch we headed downriver again, floating
downstream for a Km or so below the Raudales de Tuparro, then landing for a
walk through the forest to learn about the forest trees and their properties.
After our second night at Tambora,
we returned to Bocas del Tuparro, registered at the PNN office allowing us to
continue into the UNESCO-recognised Biosphere Reserve, portaged around the
rapids, and transferred to a new boat to make our way further upriver. A few
kilometres upriver we transferred again to our 5th boat to continue upriver to Puerto
de Carlos Lata, Amanaven, and then into the Rio Atabapo (with minor
inconvenience associated with a Venezuelan Military Patrol boat whose crew were
suspicious of our motives). We transferred to a new canoe to land at our
campsite for the next two nights, on the banks of the river, at Isla Raya, with
tents pitched on crystalline white sands. After a long day of upriver travel,
with an extensive portage at the main rapids, we were ready for our swim in the
clear waters of the river.
The following day we headed up Caño Raya, initially by canoe, then
walking, to the comunidad
indigena curripaco Caño Raya, where we hiked through the forest to the boundary
of the Savannah, enjoying the attentions of the local wasp community (some of
us). All in about a 14 Km walk, through primary forest, although in a few
places this had been cleared. We relaxed at the campsite on Isla Raya, with a
spectacular moonrise illuminating the beach.
The following morning we broke camp
and headed down the Rio Atabapo in two boats to its confluence with the
Guaviare. Then to the Rio Inírida, where
we headed upriver to Puerto Inírida, capital of Guainía, arriving in a torrential rainstorm. We then continued
upriver to the beautiful riverside village of La Ceiba and set up camp. Late
lunch/early dinner was delicious, and an evening swim in the river allowed us
to relax before sleeping in this tranquil haven.
We rose early, leaving kit to be
collected later that day, and started out upriver among river dolphins, for the
Cerros of Mavecure.
Arriving opposite Remanso we landed, met our guide for the
climb up the Cerro de Mavecure, and then climbed the Cerro, through lush vegetation
and rocky outcrops. Several parts of the ascent were aided by home-made ladders
and ropes. On reaching the summit of this 180m dome we had an outstanding view
of the other two main cerros (Pajarito and Mono) as well as smaller monoliths
further away, and the surrounding forest. Looking down on the river, with its
sandy beaches and rapids, gave a marvellous vista.
On descending, we had a
delicious sancocho lunch followed by a swim, then took to the boat to return to
Puerto Inírida, picking up our kit and saying our goodbyes and thanks to our
hosts in La Ceiba.
On arrival at Puerto Inírida we
dined at the Balso del Diablo and then walked up through the town, laden with
backpacks, to our hotel, the Cabaña Guiania, for the first sleep in a bed in a
week. The morning was a relaxing wander around the won, mostly in Papa Salada’s
mototaxi. We found a source of local fruit juices and negotiated delivery to
Bogotá of Cupuaçu and açaí juice, which duly arrive soon afterwards. The former is
very difficult to find in Colombia, and the latter virtually impossible
anywhere outside Brazil, so it was wonderful to find a source of these
delicious juices. After checking in at the airport for our flight to Bogotá, we
returned to the hotel for lunch, then back again for the flight, arriving in
Bogotá safely that afternoon.
So, we enjoyed an outstanding week
in this natural marvel – the crystal-clear rivers, forest, savannah, and rocky
mounts, as well as the hospitality of the friendly people whom we met, and with
whom we talked, walked, dined, and learned about this relatively unvisited part
of the country.
Trip map:
Photos may be used only for non-commercial purposes, with credit to "alanymarce@gmail.com"
If interested in our 11 month road trip around South America, take a look at http://suramericacontraelreloj.blogspot.com.co.
