Gap weekends… in Patagonia

2016 Oct 26-Nov 11

Nota: publicado en Inglés: vamos a editar e incluir versión en español pronto. 

Gap weekends? Obviously not a "gap year" between school and university, or between university and permanent (?) employment. We were in Argentina for a couple of weeks, and had some time beforehand to explore, as well as the intervening weekend. So, where to go? We had some gaps in terms of places we had been unable to visit places on previous trips, and in particular we wanted to visit:

Cueva de las Manos – which we had sought to visit on our “big trip” around South America however fuel shortage had prevented this,

Bosque Petrificado de Jaramillo – we had passed by the entrance on our “big trip” however had decided that it was too far off the highway for the time available; we had also visited the petrified forest at Sarmiento (http://suramericacontraelreloj.blogspot.com.co/2010/11/comodoro-rivadavia-un-viaje-entre.html ) and learned that the one at Jaramillo was different in geological age and mode of formation, hence interesting to see,

Punta Tombo – had not been on our radar until recently, however we had explored Ruta 1 along the coast from Bahia Bustamente to Camarones and wanted to see the coast north of Camarones, as well as the penguins at Punta Tombo.

So, there were gaps in our exploration of the region, and time available to fill them. 

1) Gap Weekend #1

 

We flew into Patagonia a few days early and picked up a rental Hilux 4x4, deemed appropriate for the conditions we expected in the mountains and around Jaramillo. We then headed from the coast to Rio Mayo and then to Perito Moreno for the night. Our original plan had been to stay at the Estancia Cueva de las Manos, however their generator was out and so they closed over the period we were to be there, and so we stayed in Perito Moreno. We arrived there early enough to explore Ruta 45, taking this route north of the lake into the mountains, finally arriving at a closed track, adjacent to the border with Chile, and with no connection to the highway leading back to Rio Mayo, so returned to Perito Moreno the same way. 

 

In the morning we drove south to the Estancia Cueva de las Manos, having chosen this access to the Cueva, which affords access via Estancia tracks to the canyon, on the opposite side from the cave. We then walked down into the canyon and then up again to the visitor centre, which gave us the opportunity to enjoy the views from above the canyon, the environment in the canyon itself, and proximity to a bandurrian nesting in the cliffs below where we left the Hilux. 

 

We had planned to visit the cave on a recommendation from Erik, whom we had met in El Bolsón exactly 6 years previously. We were unable to do so as a result of fuel limitations (http://suramericacontraelreloj.blogspot.com.co/2010/10/sierra-andiael-destino-sierra-andia.html ). The cave proved to be well worth the visit, its paintings of animals hunted by the original inhabitants, as well as its hand outlines, being varied and extensive. 

 

After the walk back via the canyon we enjoyed a picnic lunch overlooking the area, with a condor circling overhead.

Then back to Perito Moreno to return to the coast. We had thought to make a loop via Ruta 39 to explore the central area of the region, however time and distance (anything up to 200 Km is a local hop in Patagonia) led us to travel via the main highway west to east. From Perito Moreno to Las Heras, this is wild country, with scattered estancias, and only one blob on the map - El Pluma, which is a single building on the highway.  From Las Heras east, the traffic is relatively heavy, with oil & gas activity creating a very different environment. We stayed at Caleta Olivia, having found that this was the only place with suitable accommodation.

In the morning we headed south, taking Ruta 12 to gain access to the Bosque Petrificado, rather than the main coastal highway. This gave us us access to beautiful scenery, with multi-coloured exposure of rock escarpments and white serras. The access to the National Park was deserted, at least in terms of other people. 

 

Once at the Park Station we walked around the trail which wends its way through the petrified trees, knocked down by a volcanic shock wave in the late cretaceous, hence all lying in the same direction. The trunks are huge, and once again we marveled at the mental warp associated with what appeared to be recently fallen tree trunks, which are now stone. 

 

 

Our trip back to Comodoro Rivadavia was uneventful, and we took advantage of having the vehicle to stop for dinner at Rada Tilly, making a change from the usual restaurants in Comodoro. 

1) Gap Weekend #2

 

On the following Friday we picked up a car (this time 4x2 since we did not plan any particularly challenging setting) and drove to Puerto Madryn. On leaving Comodoro Rivadavia we found that YPF had no gas, and long lines at the Petrobras station, since there was a strike at YPF's refinery, so were slightly concerned that we would run into problems with fuel on the weekend, however these did not materialise.On Saturday morning we headed east for a circuit of the Valdés Peninsula, which we had visited previously (http://suramericacontraelreloj.blogspot.com.co/2010/11/peninsula-valdes-la-razon-de-puerto.html ), however we had not made it to Punta Norte and wanted to do so. 

We went initially to Punta Delgada, having lunch there, before walking down to above the beach where there were elephant seals basking. Then north to Punta Norte, stopping to see penguins, and then enjoying the northern area of the peninsula, which was even less populated (by human visitors) than the south and central areas (which are hardly bustling to start with). We returned to Puerto Madryn after a long day on gravel roads, reminded yet again of the scale of Patagonia, where a drive of 200 Km is nothing. 

 

The following day we set off southwards, with the intention of visiting Punta Tombo, which we had not visited before, and which is known for its huge Magellan Penguin population. Initially we took Ruta 1 to Rawson, exploring the beach, before returning to the main Ruta 3 to the turn off for Punta Tombo. The latter is well-organised in terms of facilities, however rather less so for lunch visitors, so we negotiated the acquisition of some empanadas and enjoyed these in the visitor centre courtyard, before walking the circuit down to the last lookout deck, seeing penguins in profusion, along with guanaco and Elegant-crested Tinamou. 

 

 

Leaving Punta Tombo we chose to head south on Ruta 1, leaving the main visitor access route and enjoying the tranquility and spacious vistas of this little-travelled route. We stopped for lunch just north of Cabo Raso, and then continued south to Camarones, which we had previously visited via Ruta 1 from the south (http://alanymarcemoreexploration.blogspot.com.co/2016/08/argentinas-patagonia-in-winter.html ), thus completing a substantial proportion of this beautiful and deserted road. 

 

Then back to Comodoro Rivadavia with an amazing sunset as we approached Ruta 3 to turn south again.

 

Photos may be used for non-commercial purposes with credit to alanymarce@gmail.com

Los Llanos: a Giant Anteater in Colombia (at last).

2016 Aug 13-15

Nota: publicado en Inglés: vamos a editar e incluir versión en español pronto. 

We took advantage of a “puente” to head for los llanos in order to take a break, relax a little, and with the hope of seeing some birds and exploring the area further.

The road network in this region is essentially one good surfaced road from Villavicencio east to Puerto Gaitán, and on to Puerto Carreño, a number of surfaced side roads which head off the main road into the llanos, and a lot of small unsurfaced roads, of various levels of passability, which make their way either between the surfaced roads, or to isolated fincas, without much indication as to which of these is the case. Hence taking more or less any unsurfaced road is somewhat of a guess, in terms of whether it will connect to other roads or simply dead end at a finca.

We left Bogotá on Saturday, and after leaving Villavicencio left the main highway east to explore some minor roads. The moment we left the main road traffic reduced to very little, and it was possible to see some birds. 

 

On the banks of the Rio Metica it was a pleasant surprise to see a spider monkey. We continued via the back roads, arriving at Lagos del Menegua at the end of the afternoon. In the morning we got up at dawn and headed to the Lago de Guacamayas in search of birds, typically much more active at dawn. We saw relatively few, however enjoyed the tranquil morning, and the views across the llanos. 

 

At midday we headed out to explore the area south of the main road east, finding our way down deserted tracks and finally reaching the Rio Yucao and the entrance to El Tesoro, which turned out to be the end of this particular road, with no way out other than to return, at least to the top of la loma. 

 

We took an alternative track from this point and were lucky to come across a Giant Anteater near the track, northwest of Rancho Bravo. We stopped and cautiously got out; the Anteater was initially spooked however the wind was in our favour and so our scent was blown away, so that when we kept still, the Anteater calmed down and continued its search for food. We spent 30 minutes enjoying our proximity to this marvellous creature, see how it opens up the earth to consume the ants. We were amazed to be so close, as little as 1 m from the animal at times. Finally it got wind of us and took off across the road and within less than a minute had disappeared completely.  We had hoped to see a Gient Anteater for a long time, and had been fortunate to see one in the Pantanal, however this was our first in Colombia. 

We returned to the main road, and decided to head east and see what Puerto Gaitán was like. We had not previously travelled east of Lagos de Menegua, and so this was new to us. Puerto Gaitán is a small town on the banks of the Rio Manacacias, which flows into the Rio Meta a short distance further north. There are river trips available, and it’s possible to see the pink dolphin, however apart from this, the town offers little reason to return. Returning westwards we experienced a torrential downpour, however once this had passed, made good time to the Lagos.

The following day, we joined a small group: Gustavo our guide, a family of three, and ourselves, for an “eco-walk” in the finca. It was good to walk through the original ecosystem , now sadly heavily damaged by cattle raising in the area. We saw few birds, although did see a passing toucan, and on our return, woodpeckers. However we saw a group of spider monkeys making its way through the trees, and passing directly over our heads. There were 20 or so, and they didn’t appear concerned at our quiet presence. It’s always wonderful to see monkeys In the wild. We heard howler monkeys, and saw them briefly, later in our walk. 

 

 

After breakfast and a shower we left to return to Bogotá, via back roads, at least initially. We identified a route which looked as though it would lead us parallel to the main highway back to Villavicencio, however after finding our way an hour or so south of Puerto López we found that the unsurfaced road had turned into a muddy track, which in turn became a series of mudholes, and so, discretion being the better part of valour, decided that getting terminally stuck on a road which didn't necessarily lead anywhere was not a good plan, and backtracked to the main road again to head for mamona in Villavicencio and the return home.

 

Photos may be used for non-commercial purposes with credit to alanymarce@gmail.com

Argentina’s Patagonia in Winter – a meteorological surprise!

2016 Jun 25-Jul 3

Nota: publicado en Inglés: vamos a editar e incluir versión en español pronto. 

We had a week to spend in Comodoro Rivadavia, probably not on most people’s lists of beach resorts for a week in June. Our expectation was for wind, cold, and probably snow, so we headed south armed with winter boots, thermal underwear, and double-layered winter jackets. Our connection time in Buenos Aires gave us sufficient time for a wander around La Plata and its remarkable cathedral, followed by lunch at Cabaña las Lilas in Puerto Madero, always a pleasure, and the terrace was heated sufficiently to permit eating with a view of the harbour, although the day was “fresh”, around 10^o C.

We then headed south to Comodoro Rivadavia, arriving as the sun was setting, having flown above a clear sunlit coastline. 

 

So, it was sunnier than expected, however no doubt even colder than normal as a consequence. It was not! On arrival we found it warm, if not actually balmy, and walked down to the harbour for dinner in temperatures higher than those in Buenos Aires earlier in the day.

The following day was beautiful, with temperatures up to 21^o C! We had rented a car for our one free day, and took off northwards along the coast to Bahia Bustamante, initially on the Ruta Nacional, with little evidence of wildlife, however once we turned onto the road to Bahia Bustamante within 200m we encountered a wild fax, following which we came upon guanaco in numbers, ñandú, and a variety of birdlife, including a possible condor (a little distant for clear identification). 

 

Arriving at the coast, we walked down to the beach and enjoyed a picnic on the sands, in temperatures one would be pleased to experience in the same setting in mid-summer.

 

We then made our way along Ruta 1, the coast road, to Cabo dos Bahias, stopping from time to time, and finally arriving at the Loberia in the Nature Reserve, seeing sealions basking in the sun. From here we headed for Camarones, hoping to find a place for a (very) late lunch before heading back to Comodoro Rivadavia. As one might expect, nothing was open at this time of day other than the YPF gas station, where we filled up before heading back to the Ruta Nacional. We ate empanadas and salami at the crossroads and then drove back to Comodoro, under a brilliant starscape, the clear skies giving an amazing view of the heavens.

The weather for the rest of the week continued to be sunny and warm; on the following evening we went for a long walk along the costanera and back through town, and had to take off our jackets since it was too hot to continue with them on. We enjoyed centolla several times, this being far enough south to find this on the menu in the restaurants. We also dined one evening with Jorge and his family, whom we had not seen since visiting Comodoro Rivadavia on our trip around South America a few years ago (www. http://suramericacontraelreloj.blogspot.com.co). We bought delicious chocolate-covered cherries and torta galesa, although the latter did not live up to the standard set in El Bolsón. We were surprised to find a Carmello Patti 2002 Cabernet for a remarkably good price, and took advantage of the presence of Cardon in the town.

 

We flew back to Buenos Aires on Friday evening and spent Saturday there before heading home on Sunday, meeting Wilfredo for an excellent lunch at Don Julio in Palermo, visiting the Yoko Ono exhibition at MALBA, and dining at Il Ballo del Mattone in the evening. The following day, home again.

 

Photos may be used for non-commercial purposes with credit to alanymarce@gmail.com