Gap weekends… in Patagonia

2016 Oct 26-Nov 11

Nota: publicado en Inglés: vamos a editar e incluir versión en español pronto. 

Gap weekends? Obviously not a "gap year" between school and university, or between university and permanent (?) employment. We were in Argentina for a couple of weeks, and had some time beforehand to explore, as well as the intervening weekend. So, where to go? We had some gaps in terms of places we had been unable to visit places on previous trips, and in particular we wanted to visit:

Cueva de las Manos – which we had sought to visit on our “big trip” around South America however fuel shortage had prevented this,

Bosque Petrificado de Jaramillo – we had passed by the entrance on our “big trip” however had decided that it was too far off the highway for the time available; we had also visited the petrified forest at Sarmiento (http://suramericacontraelreloj.blogspot.com.co/2010/11/comodoro-rivadavia-un-viaje-entre.html ) and learned that the one at Jaramillo was different in geological age and mode of formation, hence interesting to see,

Punta Tombo – had not been on our radar until recently, however we had explored Ruta 1 along the coast from Bahia Bustamente to Camarones and wanted to see the coast north of Camarones, as well as the penguins at Punta Tombo.

So, there were gaps in our exploration of the region, and time available to fill them. 

1) Gap Weekend #1

 

We flew into Patagonia a few days early and picked up a rental Hilux 4x4, deemed appropriate for the conditions we expected in the mountains and around Jaramillo. We then headed from the coast to Rio Mayo and then to Perito Moreno for the night. Our original plan had been to stay at the Estancia Cueva de las Manos, however their generator was out and so they closed over the period we were to be there, and so we stayed in Perito Moreno. We arrived there early enough to explore Ruta 45, taking this route north of the lake into the mountains, finally arriving at a closed track, adjacent to the border with Chile, and with no connection to the highway leading back to Rio Mayo, so returned to Perito Moreno the same way. 

 

In the morning we drove south to the Estancia Cueva de las Manos, having chosen this access to the Cueva, which affords access via Estancia tracks to the canyon, on the opposite side from the cave. We then walked down into the canyon and then up again to the visitor centre, which gave us the opportunity to enjoy the views from above the canyon, the environment in the canyon itself, and proximity to a bandurrian nesting in the cliffs below where we left the Hilux. 

 

We had planned to visit the cave on a recommendation from Erik, whom we had met in El Bolsón exactly 6 years previously. We were unable to do so as a result of fuel limitations (http://suramericacontraelreloj.blogspot.com.co/2010/10/sierra-andiael-destino-sierra-andia.html ). The cave proved to be well worth the visit, its paintings of animals hunted by the original inhabitants, as well as its hand outlines, being varied and extensive. 

 

After the walk back via the canyon we enjoyed a picnic lunch overlooking the area, with a condor circling overhead.

Then back to Perito Moreno to return to the coast. We had thought to make a loop via Ruta 39 to explore the central area of the region, however time and distance (anything up to 200 Km is a local hop in Patagonia) led us to travel via the main highway west to east. From Perito Moreno to Las Heras, this is wild country, with scattered estancias, and only one blob on the map - El Pluma, which is a single building on the highway.  From Las Heras east, the traffic is relatively heavy, with oil & gas activity creating a very different environment. We stayed at Caleta Olivia, having found that this was the only place with suitable accommodation.

In the morning we headed south, taking Ruta 12 to gain access to the Bosque Petrificado, rather than the main coastal highway. This gave us us access to beautiful scenery, with multi-coloured exposure of rock escarpments and white serras. The access to the National Park was deserted, at least in terms of other people. 

 

Once at the Park Station we walked around the trail which wends its way through the petrified trees, knocked down by a volcanic shock wave in the late cretaceous, hence all lying in the same direction. The trunks are huge, and once again we marveled at the mental warp associated with what appeared to be recently fallen tree trunks, which are now stone. 

 

 

Our trip back to Comodoro Rivadavia was uneventful, and we took advantage of having the vehicle to stop for dinner at Rada Tilly, making a change from the usual restaurants in Comodoro. 

1) Gap Weekend #2

 

On the following Friday we picked up a car (this time 4x2 since we did not plan any particularly challenging setting) and drove to Puerto Madryn. On leaving Comodoro Rivadavia we found that YPF had no gas, and long lines at the Petrobras station, since there was a strike at YPF's refinery, so were slightly concerned that we would run into problems with fuel on the weekend, however these did not materialise.On Saturday morning we headed east for a circuit of the Valdés Peninsula, which we had visited previously (http://suramericacontraelreloj.blogspot.com.co/2010/11/peninsula-valdes-la-razon-de-puerto.html ), however we had not made it to Punta Norte and wanted to do so. 

We went initially to Punta Delgada, having lunch there, before walking down to above the beach where there were elephant seals basking. Then north to Punta Norte, stopping to see penguins, and then enjoying the northern area of the peninsula, which was even less populated (by human visitors) than the south and central areas (which are hardly bustling to start with). We returned to Puerto Madryn after a long day on gravel roads, reminded yet again of the scale of Patagonia, where a drive of 200 Km is nothing. 

 

The following day we set off southwards, with the intention of visiting Punta Tombo, which we had not visited before, and which is known for its huge Magellan Penguin population. Initially we took Ruta 1 to Rawson, exploring the beach, before returning to the main Ruta 3 to the turn off for Punta Tombo. The latter is well-organised in terms of facilities, however rather less so for lunch visitors, so we negotiated the acquisition of some empanadas and enjoyed these in the visitor centre courtyard, before walking the circuit down to the last lookout deck, seeing penguins in profusion, along with guanaco and Elegant-crested Tinamou. 

 

 

Leaving Punta Tombo we chose to head south on Ruta 1, leaving the main visitor access route and enjoying the tranquility and spacious vistas of this little-travelled route. We stopped for lunch just north of Cabo Raso, and then continued south to Camarones, which we had previously visited via Ruta 1 from the south (http://alanymarcemoreexploration.blogspot.com.co/2016/08/argentinas-patagonia-in-winter.html ), thus completing a substantial proportion of this beautiful and deserted road. 

 

Then back to Comodoro Rivadavia with an amazing sunset as we approached Ruta 3 to turn south again.

 

Photos may be used for non-commercial purposes with credit to alanymarce@gmail.com