Lapa Rios: a brief experience in the Osa Peninsula / una experiencia corta en la Península Osa

2015 November 7-10

(Publicado en inglés, versión en español pronto) 

We had an opportunity to make a brief visit to Lapa Rios, in the Osa Pensinsula of Costa Rica. 

From San José to Lapa Rios shows up in google maps as a trip of 5 hours 59 minutes by car: this is rather optimistic.  We arrived at SJO at 1130h, and were in our room in Lapa Rios Lodge shortly before midnight.

This resulted from several factors. We would have expected to get rolling from the car rental office around an hour after arrival at the airport, i.e., around 1230h, and to stop for lunch at some point, hence giving a travel time of around 7 hours or so, giving an arrival at Lapa Rios of 1930h, just in time for dinner.

We had not counted on:

1.  Fallen trees across the road shortly after entering the Osa Peninsula,
2.  The fact that the last 15 Km or so are unsurfaced road, 
3.  The presence of a river crossing the road around 4 Km from the lodge (and the consequences of this taking into account that the rental car had been chosen for economy and not 4x4 capability (i.e. was a small “compact” vehicle).

The trip to the península was uneventful, with a lunch stop at Hacienda Antigua, which provided good food and drink, with unlimited coffee.

Once on the peninsula, after a few kilometres, we came to a pair of fallen trees across the road. There were a couple of vehicles ahead of us and a couple on the other side of the barrier. We are not without experience in handling trees across the road (see http://suramericacontraelreloj.blogspot.com.co/2011/01/nunca-viajes-sin-tu-wave.html for more on this) and so were not unduly concerned. In fact on this occasion there were plenty of people to lend a hand, one of whom has already called a friend nearby who would bring a remarkably capable chainsaw to cut up the tree trunks.  While waiting for his arrival, the group busied itself in clearing smaller branches and foliage. So, after about an hour and a half, the two big trees had been disposed of, and we were able to continue. 

 

After Puerto Jiménez, the surfaced road was replaced by a dirt road, not in bad shape really, but not suited to the rental car, so that our rate of progress slowed significantly. At the point where we were within minutes of arrival at the lodge, we were surprised to find a river crossing the road. It was by this time raining. We checked the water depth, and judged that although we might be able to cross without ingesting water into the motor, there was significant uncertainty with respect to the water depth when we were to return, given that it was already raining, and could continue doing so, with unknown results on the river’s flow. So, we parked the car at the side of the road, sufficiently far from the river to reduce the probability of it’s being inundated, and waded the river with our backpacks, to hike to the lodge. We met a motorcyclist heading the other way who told us that the lodge staff lived in cottages a couple of Km further on, and that we should ask them for help. We did, and they called the lodge. A 4x4 pickup was then dispatched to pick us up, taking us across the second (!) river, which we certainly could not have crossed in our rental vehicle, and finally to the lodge, where the friendly staff put us into a cabana. They clearly took pity on us, by choosing this one, which was within 100m of the lodge reception. We found later that most other cabañas were a lot further away.

We then spent three nights at Lapa Rios, which was set in the midst of the Costa Rican tropical forest, with excellent views over the valleys on both sides, and down to the sea to the east of the peninsula.  There was prolific birdlife, ranging from tiny hummingbirds to black hawk and macaws cruising above the forest, frogs, lizards, monkeys, and a variety of other fauna. 

After breakfast, based on concerns from the staff that our vehicle should not be left unattended at the river crossing, we were taken back to the (first) river to pick up the vehicle and take it to Rancho Tropical. Our hosts had called Carlos, owner of the ranch, and arranged for us to leave the car with him. This proved fortuitous, since we found in conversation with him that he ran cabalgatas, and we asked whether we could go riding that day. He was slightly surprised that we meant “now” however soon agreed, and while he was rounding up horses and saddling them, we were entertained by his small son, Carlos Bebe, who showed us around the ranch. We then rode down to the sea, and along the beach, across the low-lying savannah, and then climbed the hills for amazing views of the coastline, before returning to the Ranch. 

 

In the afternoon we went for a walk to seek birds and in the evening went out for a “night safari”. The following morning, another birdwalk, followed by a walk around a circular route including a beautiful waterfall. 

Birds:

Whimbrel on the beach

Tanager desconocida (help identify this one please)












Scrub euphonia     Roseate spoonbill

Crimson-fronted parakeet


Common black hawk

   Chestnut-mandibled Toucan

Bare-throated tiger heron
Baird's trogon


Monkeys:

  Mantled howler (Alouatta palliata)

   Geoffroy's spider monkey (Ateles geoffroyi)

  White-headed capuchin (Cebus capucinus)

Frogs & Toad:

   Small-headed tree frog
 
  Red-Eyed Green Tree Frog
   Rana flecha
   Giant toad


Lizard:

Anole Lizard

 Early the following morning, taking into account the need to get back to San José for our departure flight, coupled with our experience of the trip time on our arrival, we set out to pick up the car from Carlos, and headed back to SJO. This time, with brief stops, including a friendly coffee stop (El Mirador de Osa: where we plan to return one day) at the top of the ridge before leaving the peninsula, we made the trip in a little under 7 hours (no trees or rivers).

So, our brief visit to Lapa Rios was demanding and very enjoyable, although it has to be said that it would make more sense for most people to include this in a longer visit to Costa Rica. The staff were friendly and helpful, the food good, the cabañas comfortable, and the surrounding ecosystem rich in flora and fauna. 

 

Photos may be used for non-commercial purposes, with credit to alanymarce@gmail.com 

If interested in our 11 month road trip around South America, take a look at http://suramericacontraelreloj.blogspot.com.co.