More exploration / Más exploración: Six weeks in Patagonia

2021 November/December

Alan had to travel to Argentina for six weeks at the end of 2021 for work in the Vaca Muerta field. We made it clear to the client that the trip would be contingent on our being able to travel together, since we did not want to be in two different ends of the continent in case of reimposition of travel restrictions. Fortunately, the prohibition of entry for travellers without work visas (based on compelling reasons to visit the country, in limited numbers) was lifted the day before travel and so we were able to travel. The form filling/pandemic protocols were extensive and somewhat opaque, however we successfully navigated these and were able to combine business with pleasure for six weeks in Patagonia.

The 43 days included 5 days waiting for clearance to start work (client pandemic protocol), 5 weekends, and one 3 day long weekend, so we had a fair amount of time available to explore this area of Patagonia. Although Alan had spent time in the area previously this had been restricted to the operating areas near Neuquén, on our “big trip” around South America we had left Argentina at Mendoza and returned at Bariloche (more or less), and our other travels in Argentine Patagonia had been further south, so this northern part of Patagonia was new ground for us.

We were able to spend time exploring the many points of interest close to Neuquén, including geological and paleontological attractions, wineries, and lakes and rivers, which provide a distinct contrast against the dry steppe which is the basic scenery of the region except for the cordillera with snow-capped mountains, natural lakes, rivers, and waterfalls.

We stayed initially in Neuquén, then later in Añelo (to the surprise of most residents of Neuquén, for whom the latter is far from a tourist destination). It was summer in Patagonia, and temperatures were typically in the low 30s C during the day, falling to the 20s in the evening (and with a couple of mornings which were quite cold); wind was an ever-present element in the weather.

Vehicles

In order to travel around we had reserved a 4x4 pick-up to be collected on arrival at NQN however the rental agency told us that the pick-up was missing – apparently the previous renter had kept it longer than planned and had not mentioned this to the agency. So, our first 5 days of travel, with the intention of heading north to Mendoza Province, and then south and west into the mountains, with a lot of unsurfaced roads to cover, would be in a 4x4 car, with limited ground clearance. As it turned out, the FIAT Cronos proved reasonably capable and we were able to go everywhere planned without too much concern.

We returned this car after the 5 day pandemic waiting period, and the following weekend picked up a 4x4 pick-up (which had now been returned; we noted that there was now a form which one had to sign promising to return the vehicle as planned). This was a Nissan Frontier – our first experience with a Frontier, although we’d driven other pick-ups in the past. It proved quite comfortable and was capable of taking us everywhere we wanted to go. Even so, it provided no reason to change our view that pick-ups are not ideal vehicles, providing no real benefit in terms of space (we wouldn’t take kit with us in the tray, owing to concerns with security, access, and exposure to dust and rain), so luggage has to go into the second row of seats (of any). The handling is poor and the ride is rough compared to a wagon/SUV. There were no SUVs available for rent however…

We returned the Frontier after the long weekend, and Marce found a better option for the remainder of the trip – a GM Tracker AWD. This was a lot more comfortable, more economical, had an automatic transmission, and while “All-wheel Drive” did have a differential lock, and provide capable of taking us wherever we wanted to go for the rest of the trip.

Statistics:

· FIAT Cronos - start 17,738 km, end 19,442 km, 1704 km in all

· Nissan Frontier - start 16,447 km, end 18,200 km (approx), 1753 km in all

· GM Tracker - start 32,393 km end 34,117 km, 1724 km in all

· 5181 km overall.

Setting aside local travels, we did some wandering as follows:

Transit in Buenos Aires

Through serendipitous planning, we were able to breakfast and lunch in Puerto Madero before heading to AEP for the flight to NQN, breakfasting at the Hilton and lunching at Cabaña las Lilas.

Five day pandemic waiting period

We stayed the first night in Neuquén and the following day headed north via Rincon de los Sauces to Malargüe, in Mendoza Province. This took us northwest through the Patagonian steppe to the iconic Ruta 40, taking this northward to Malargüe, which proved an attractive town, close to the mountains which form the border with Chile. We explored a route into the mountains the following morning before taking Ruta 40 south again, to reach Chos Malal, set in the cordillera. On the way we stopped at the Ruta 40 mid-point, reminding us of the extent of this road – 5200 km, 1260 km longer than Route 66 in the USA, and a little further than the trip from Berlin to Kuwait.

On the way, we were impressed by the scenery, with multi-hued exposure of rocks in the “bardas” and “cerros” on all sides, the volcanos visible, and the snow-capped peaks to the west. When we headed into the mountains from Malargüe into Castillos de Pincheira we encountered light snow, and it was good to hear and see bandurrias flying in the river valley.

Chos Malal is a small town in the mountains, with limited options for restaurants, however the Terra Malal hotel was welcoming, and we found a felt-maker with beautiful products next door. We walked the Costanera, made our way further into the mountains to the Cascada de Felix, Huinganco, and Andacolla.

Weekends

On the two-day weekends we lunched at Saurus, at the Familia Schröder winery, once and at Malma winery twice; we visited Lago Pellegrini, approaching via the disgusting rubbish tip to the east; visited the Huellas de Dinosaurios, Cañadon Escondido, Mirador Cabo Alarcón, and Picún Leufú. We also visited the surpisingly extensive zoo at Bubalcó (where once gaian we reflected on the sad captivity of birds like the macaws which should be flying freely and not trapped in small cages, although the compounds in which there are a Siberian Tiger and White Tiger for example are appropriate enough). We also enjoyed the Mirador Valle de la Luna Amarillo and Mirador Tres Cruces Paso Córdova. It was interesting to see how quickly one leaves the populated areas in the river valleys and reaches the Patagonian steppe, where the population is very sparse.

One weekend we explored Auca Mahuina, a volcano north of Neuquén, which is a major oilfield and also a Guanaco Reserve; we were pleased to see many guanaco, and were also fortunate to see condors on the higher slopes. The following day we went to the Añelo riverbank, to Playa Paynelafquen on the shores of Lago Barreales, and one to Mari Menuco Camping ground, which would be a good option for camping in the future.

On our last two-day weekend we visited the Cueva del Leon, stopping to see a petrified tree trunk on the way, El Guardian De La Confluencia, and La Herradura on the Plottier riverbank.

The “puente” (long weekend)

We took the opportunity to visit Hostería Piedra Pintada on the “puente”; it’s in the lake country, on the shores of Lago Pulmari, to the south of Aluminé, a popular weekend and holiday destination. The setting is beautiful, the lake pristine, and the snow-capped mountains lit in the morning by the sun. We made a circular trip around the area, passing Lago Norquinquo, Moquehue, and Villa Pehuenia, and returning to the hostería, convinced that we had chosen the right spot for the three day break.

We also made the 14 km walk along the lakeshore and then up to Cascada Coloco, with great views in all directions, and with hardly any other walkers.

On the way back to Neuquén we enjoyed the Argentine practice of stopping at a riverbank for a picnic and also stopped at Laguna Blanca National Park, for a bird-watching opportunity.

Transit in Buenos Aires

On our way home we again stopped in Buenos Aires, this time for an overnight stop, albeit with an early start to get to EZE for the flight home. We did have time to lunch in Cabaña las Lilas and walk Recoleta, which was a pleasant stroll.

Work

Alan’s work involved long trips on poor roads to wellsites in the area, impeded once by roadblocks on the way out of Neuquén, frequently by “no shows” in the field, and one day activity was suspended since all union members (i.e., nearly everyone) had left the wellsites to celebrate the election of a new union head. It was good however to visit the operations, in which leading edge techniques are being applied to oil and gas development. It was disappointing however to note that emissions remain excessive…

Marce worked remotely every business day, and also made a trip to Mendoza to visit a client there, with a connection at Córdoba which gave the opportunity to meet a colleague for coffee in the airport and catch up on news.

Roadworks

...were frequent, especially on the main route northwest out of Neuquén - when we asked when they would be finished the answer was "maybe in 20 years...".

One example of a scary consequence of poor signage can be seen here - when leaving a main junction onto what will someday be a dual carriageway/divided highway, the lanes are clearly marked as being for oncoming traffic in both lanes!