Wednesday 30 May 2018

Route 66 part 1, as well as Chicago, Arkansas, and Houston



2018 May

Route 66 is the legendary road trip route in the USA, bringing back memories of the Stones in 1964 – the first track on their first LP being Bobby Troup’s “Route 66”.  We had driven bits of the route at its western end over the years however had never made a specific trip to drive any of the route. We planned to visit Chicago for a long weekend, and to visit friends in Arkansas the following weekend before heading to Houston for a week’s business, and it seemed a good idea to rent a car and drive the eastern section of Route 66, from Chicago to Springfield Missouri, the idea being to leave Chicago on the Tuesday morning, enjoying the road, visiting small towns and attractions on the way, and make our way to Arkansas on the Friday from wherever we had reached on Thursday night.

Chicago:

 

We spent our time in Chicago enjoying the architecture, restaurants, and parks, visiting the excellent Art Institute, Museum of Contemporary Art, and the rather more traditional Field Museum. 

 

We also attended a concert by the Chicago Symphony Orchestra: Bruch’s Concerto for 2 pianos (with the Labeques on the pianos); and Tchaikowsky’s Manfred. One day we took one of the Architecture tours by boat, which proved well worth while. 

 

 

We also went out to Oak Park by train and took in a tour to learn more about Frank Lloyd Wright. 

 

Route 66:



We had booked a Mustang convertible for our trip southwest, however on being offered a Mini Cooper convertible this seemed a better opportunity, despite its being completely inconsistent with the image of a Route 66 car, and it was a good decision. 

 

Rather than provide a sequential list of the places we visited on our way west, here are some reflections:

·      The route in Illinois and Missouri is generally well signposted, although for some curious reason the signs are frequently after a road junction (anywhere from 50 yards further on to 10 miles further on) so finding the way is somewhat challenging, although it was not too difficult. There are also many variations of the route, at different periods in its history, so there are choices to be made on which to take. There were half a dozen sections were the route has disappeared completely, and one has to take the Interstate, although these are short sections, so most of the road is the original route. 

·      It runs through small towns and villages, although Springfield (Illinois) and St. Louis are obvious exceptions. The scenery in Illinois was generally uninspiring, being flat farmland, however once into Missouri it improved markedly, with woods and fields in undulating countryside. Devil’s Elbow, in Missouri is a particularly attractive spot. 

·      There are occasional “original” Route 66 attractions, such as old filling stations, cafés, and motels. Some of these can be seen below. We stayed one night at the Route 66 Hotel & Conference Centre in Springfield (Illinois), which proved uninspiring, and where it had proved impossible to eradicate the stale cigarette smell which no doubt was typical of much of the life of the original motel. The Magnolia Hotel in St. Louis retains some of its history, and the Munger Moss Motel, Lebanon (Missouri) was a delighful place to stay, at least in terms of our conversations with the owner and the neon sign on the highway (the room was fine, although had it been any hotter the noisy air conditioning unit would have impeded sleep – we chose to switch it off and live with the temperature). 

·      People were friendly and helpful, all welcoming anyone making the “pilgrimage” on the route. 

·      Some towns made the most of their location on the route with murals depicting the old highway as well as local historical scenes.

·      We visited the excellent Pulitzer Art Museum in St. Louis, although unfortunately the highly recommended Contemporary Art Museum was closed for installation of a new exhibition. 

 



 

 

 

 
 



 











 













Overall the trip along Route 66 was a little underwhelming. Although it was interesting to see this part of the USA in a more leisurely manner than from the Interstates, the past appears as occasional snapshots rather than a continuous film reel, as no doubt one might expect. It was a pleasant interlude, and we will plan on driving the remaining parts of the route in the future, probably in similar chunks of a few days at a time.

Arkansas:

We left Route 66 at Lebanon and headed south, through attractive hills, with little other than local traffic. The Mini Cooper was perfect for the Ozarks, winding through green forest with few other vehicles. 

 

We stopped briefly in Mountain View for a look at the Arts Centre and a coffee, then continued to visit Troy & Pat for the weekend, during which we explored Blanchard Springs Cavern, which was impressive in its scale and beauty. 

 

Following our relaxing weekend, catching up on recent history, we headed off to Little Rock for a flight to Houston.

Houston:

Houston was a week of business, however also allowed us to catch up with some of our many friends there. In addition we visited two excellent exhibitions at the Museum of Fine Arts: “Peacock in the Desert: The Royal Arts of Jodhpur”, and “Modernism on the Ganges: Raghubir Singh Photographs”, as well as the Houston Center for Photography. On the Friday evening we attended a concert by the Houston Symphony Orchestra, which exceeded our expectations massively: first Mozart’s Quintet in E-flat major beautifully performed by Jonathan Fischer, Mark Nuccio, Rian Craypo, and William VerMeulen, with Emanuel Ax on piano, and then Ax playing Mozart’s Piano Concerto No. 27, delicately performed. After the break we experienced a revelation – The Rite of Spring, performed in an amazing integration of music, dance (Yuka Oishi), and digital art (Klaus Obermaier / Ars Electronica Futurelab). We left with the feeling of having gone through a door to a new world of performance possibilities. On Saturday we enjoyed an evening with friends we had not seen for a decade, leaving with the promise to ensure that our next encounter would be much sooner.


Abrazos

Alan and Marce

Photos may be used for non-commercial purposes with credit to alanymarce@gmail.com