2016 Jun 25-Jul 3
Nota: publicado
en Inglés: vamos a editar e incluir versión en español pronto.
We had a week to spend in Comodoro Rivadavia,
probably not on most people’s lists of beach resorts for a week in June. Our
expectation was for wind, cold, and probably snow, so we headed south armed
with winter boots, thermal underwear, and double-layered winter jackets. Our
connection time in Buenos Aires gave us sufficient time for a wander around La
Plata and its remarkable cathedral, followed by lunch at Cabaña las Lilas in
Puerto Madero, always a pleasure, and the terrace was heated sufficiently to
permit eating with a view of the harbour, although the day was “fresh”, around
10o C.
We then headed south to Comodoro Rivadavia,
arriving as the sun was setting, having flown above a clear sunlit coastline.
So, it was sunnier than expected, however no doubt even colder than normal as a
consequence. It was not! On arrival we found it warm, if not actually balmy,
and walked down to the harbour for dinner in temperatures higher than those in
Buenos Aires earlier in the day.
The following day was beautiful, with
temperatures up to 21o C! We had rented a car for our one free day,
and took off northwards along the coast to Bahia Bustamante, initially on the
Ruta Nacional, with little evidence of wildlife, however once we turned onto
the road to Bahia Bustamante within 200m we encountered a wild fax, following
which we came upon guanaco in numbers, ñandú, and a variety of birdlife,
including a possible condor (a little distant for clear identification).
Arriving at the coast, we walked down to the beach and enjoyed a picnic on the
sands, in temperatures one would be pleased to experience in the same setting
in mid-summer.
We then made our way along Ruta 1, the coast
road, to Cabo dos Bahias, stopping from time to time, and finally arriving at
the Loberia in the Nature Reserve, seeing sealions basking in the sun. From
here we headed for Camarones, hoping to find a place for a (very) late lunch
before heading back to Comodoro Rivadavia. As one might expect, nothing was
open at this time of day other than the YPF gas station, where we filled up
before heading back to the Ruta Nacional. We ate empanadas and salami at the
crossroads and then drove back to Comodoro, under a brilliant starscape, the
clear skies giving an amazing view of the heavens.
The weather for the rest of the week continued
to be sunny and warm; on the following evening we went for a long walk along
the costanera and back through town, and had to take off our jackets since it
was too hot to continue with them on. We enjoyed centolla several times, this
being far enough south to find this on the menu in the restaurants. We also
dined one evening with Jorge and his family, whom we had not seen since
visiting Comodoro Rivadavia on our trip around South America a few years ago
(www. http://suramericacontraelreloj.blogspot.com.co). We bought delicious
chocolate-covered cherries and torta galesa, although the latter did not live
up to the standard set in El Bolsón. We were surprised to find a Carmello Patti
2002 Cabernet for a remarkably good price, and took advantage of the presence
of Cardon in the town.
We flew back to Buenos Aires on Friday evening
and spent Saturday there before heading home on Sunday, meeting Wilfredo for an
excellent lunch at Don Julio in Palermo, visiting the Yoko Ono exhibition at
MALBA, and dining at Il Ballo del Mattone in the
evening. The following day, home again.
Photos
may be used for non-commercial purposes with credit to alanymarce@gmail.com
