2013 Jun 16-29
Nota: publicado en Inglés: vamos a
editar e incluir versión en español pronto.
This blog is intended to capture current and future
exploration, and also to give us an opportunity to record trips made in the
last few years which we didn't get around to posting earlier. This post is in
the latter category. We had no plan to visit Croatia or Slovenia in 2013,
however the concept of mutatis mutandis applies to travel plans as well as
contracts…
We were going to Algeria on business, and had a conference to
attend, as a Panel Member, in Istanbul.
As always we sought to combine business with pleasure, and decided that a good
option would be to spend some time in Turkey, taking advantage of being in
Istanbul for the conference, and of the non-stop flights available from
Istanbul to Algiers and back. However… shortly before travelling the conference
was postponed to the following year, as a result of concerns following the occupation
of Taksim Square and the resulting clashes.
So, we could either go
to Turkey anyway (which would no doubt be relatively quiet in tourism terms) or
go somewhere else before/after Algeria, on the principle of “no dar papaya”. We decided on the latter, and looked for an
interesting destination from which it would be relatively easy to get to
Algiers and back.
Since Lufthansa’s prices were significantly lower than their
competition we were flying via Frankfurt a lot at this time (putting up with
the negatives of FRA in the interests of economy). FRA was going to be a
convenient hub for us to travel from home to Zagreb and back again to head for
Algiers, then back again, etc., etc.
For Alan, Zagreb has been a destination with an image born of
the post-World War II era, grey, drab, cold, and uninteresting, albeit with
recognition that this image is a prejudiced. The reality of the city was astonishing:
a bright sunny city, with beautiful architecture, lively markets, and a
positive spirit. We walked through the upper town, noting with interest the
memorial plaque to Nikola Tesla, visited the market and bought charcuterie and cheese for our travels.
We picked up a rental car (Golf diesel, which proved to be
excellent, complete with in-car WiFi), and headed south on the excellent new
motorway, passing on the way out of the city, somewhat to our surprise, a
BC-registered Jeep.
Our first stop, after enjoying the countryside on the way,
was Dubrovnik, the beautiful walled city, which has been an important seaport at
least since the 7th century CE, having been a stopover for Greek
sailors, capital of Ragusa, key city in the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian Empires,
and which has survived the 1667 CE earthquake and the siege of Dubrovnik in 1991/1992
CE.
The city, “Pearl of the Adriatic” according to UNESCO, is architecturally beautiful, with Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque churches, monasteries, palaces and fountains. The original walled city is accessible on foot, except for very limited vehicle entry, with the obvious result that it’s ideal for wandering around. We also explored the Dalmatian coast, one day heading to Orebić, from which one can take a ferry to Korčula, although we arrived too late to visit the island, We did enjoy a late lunch overlooking the Adriatic, then headed back to Dubrovnik.
Our return trip northwards took us initially to Trogir,
another UNESCO world heritage site, founded in the 3rd century CE as
a Roman port,
...and then to Split. The latter, previously known principally as a budget
seaside resort for British holidaymakers, was a stunning surprise. The Roman
Emperor Diocletian retired here in the 4th century CE, building a
palace which is still, remarkably, a living part of the centre of the city,
with stores, bars, restaurants, and businesses within its confines.
One day we took a ferry to Šolta, to fulfil a commitment made a year or so earlier, when we had
met our friend Aleksei, from Grohote, in a workshop in Cartagena. We had
entered into a discussion of our discovery that the unusual cobbled streets in
Punta Arenas had been built by Croatian immigrants to Patagonia in the 19th
and early 20th centuries CE, and he had told us about his home town which
was built of stone, and that we should visit it one day to see the techniques
employed. The town is amazing, with streets, s, and even roofs built of stone.
Thanks Aleksei for introducing us to your home.
The following day we went to see the Roman ruins at Salona,
and on our way back noticed a hilltop construction which looked interesting, so
detoured to see it. It turned out to be the fortress at Klis, which had not
been on our radar as an attraction but which was well worth visiting, having
been a castle and frontier post for 2000 years (as well as, we learned today, a
shooting location for the series “Game of
Thrones”). We arrived too late to go in, however the friendly goy at the
entrance let us in, as long as we didn't spend too long. We had ample
opportunity to ascend to the top of the fortress and appreciate the setting and
construction.
We then headed north again to Šibenik, yet another fascinating historic town, the oldest built
by Croats on the coast, and then inland to the astonishing Plitvice Lakes.
Although it was relatively late in the day with respect to the park opening
times we walked a circuit around the lower lakes, which were by that hour
relatively quiet.
We then made our back to Zagreb, for a night before flying to
Algiers (another story).
A few days later we returned to Zagreb, spending a night
before picking up another rental car to drive to Slovenia. We had heard Slovenia
described as the country of a thousand castles; we planned to make our way
initially to Ljubljana and then explore from there, however only a few minutes
after crossing the border into Slovenia we were seduced by the sight of a
castle on our right, and detoured to find the town of Brežice; subsequently by
Novo Mesto, attractive town in a bend in the river; then by Žužemberk; finally arriving in Ljubljana in
the evening.
Ljubljana is another city
suffering in Alan’s mind from its post-World War II image, and which proved to
be a jewel of a town. The castle alone offers a range of attractions, the town
is green and pleasant, and the people welcoming and friendly.
We explored Slovenia as much as
possible in the short time we had: travelling to Škofja
Loka, then via leafy woods and hills to Cerkno on the way to Idrija, with its mercury mining history and
lace tradition.
Lastly to Predjama Castle, built into a cave mouth in the
cliffs. A fairytale castle if ever there was one.
We returned to Zagreb after our brief time in Slovenia, to
return home this time via LHR with a brief stopover in London for a visit to
the Royal Opera House and a curry (in a restaurant, not in the Opera House).
Photos may be used for
non-commercial purposes with credit to alanymarce@gmail.com
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