A Pyrenean Road Trip

2012 Nov 24-Dec 9

We were in Pau for a week, and had a week prior to the this to explore. We chose to head into the Pyrenees, initially to the foothills on the northern flank of the mountains, to Oloron Sainte Marie, and on to St Jean Pied de Port, where we walked up to the starting point of “El Camino” (to be explored further later).  The countryside was quiet, given that this was wintertime, and we enjoyed food and wine in the small villages. 

We then continued over the mountains via the Col de Izpéguy, crossing the almost unnoticed frontier at the top of the pass then through the mountains to Bilbao, where we enjoyed pintxos (local name for tapas) and good a wine. This was our opportunity to visit the Guggenheim, which lived up to its reputation.

From Bilbao we headed east again, this time on the southern flank of the Pyrenees, through more beautiful foothills. We wondered about visiting Pamplona and on discovering that it was a relatively recent city (established in 74 BCE) we thought it worthwhile to visit. 

From here we continued eastwards, avoiding the main highways further south, and enjoying an outstanding route the southern edge of the mountains. We wound our way along these quiet rods, in bright sunshine under blue skies, stopping at villages and towns dating back to mediæval times, and at the Lumbier Gorge.

 We then passed through Seu d'Urgell into Andorra; which turned out to be a strange place – a tax-free shopping centre, with “sixties style” hotels and restaurants, and apparently popular for skiing, although apart from shopping and skiing there was little to justify visiting. 

We left for Carcassone, passing over the mountains northwards through a sudden heavy snowfall, turning the pass into a skating rink. In Carcassonne we stayed in the walled city, which gave us an opportunity to sense how the town would have been hundreds of years ago, since there were no other visitors. Our dinner was cassoulet, traditional dish of the region, and presumably a way to ensure inter-personal tolerance in the inhabitants.

We then left to close the loop back to Pau, taking the autoroute, for the first time in this exploration of the Pyrenees. 

 

Alan y Marce

Photos may be used for non-commercial purposes with credit to alanymarce@gmail.com